The feather boas, headpieces, vibrant colours, fast-moving Samba feet, crowds of people celebrating and the sunshine draping itself over the city, sea, and mountains. Experiencing the Carnival in Rio de Janeiro this year was an experience of a lifetime. This is my story of how I lived Carnaval Brasil 2023.
Melanie Anderson
Instagram: @HelloMelRu
During last summer I had pivoted during my travels back to The States for a visit with family and was soon more settled than I'd planned. I was seeing friends online still travelling and knew I wanted to get back out there, but also wasn't sure where to go. I'm not someone who seeks out colder weather, so escaping to the South American Summer sounded perfect. When I realized how close my departure could align perfectly with Carnaval, I found myself quite spontaneously just hitting 'Go for it' on the booking.
As a tip, if you book your flight in advance, it will also include accommodation offers, and there are good savings to that. But I'm a backpacker at heart and knew I could make a last-minute booking that still fell in line with the rest of my budget.
Then, in the true spirit of travel diaries, some of the friends I met last summer backpacking in Colombia had decided to rent an Airbnb in Rio with some other friends they had just met in Argentina. And, so it happens that there was room for me. And just like that, I was quickly added to the 'Carnaval Brasil 2023' WhatsApp group.
With accommodation for 10 days paid up, it was time to plan out my route and pack. Having the option to shop a little Stateside, I was going to, for once, show up prepared for a unique experience while backpacking. Travelling with my new body jewels and a sparkly bikini with a beaded skirt was fun and worth the effort for me, especially because I wanted to invest in things I could wear again and be a bit more sustainable. But, even if I hadn't planned ahead, it turns out I could have got costumes and glitter for sale in Brazil, too, to my surprise. You could easily land and have nothing with you, and then inexpensively find things with vendors or at markets.
So you want to go to Carnaval and don't know how to get your friends to commit?
"Carnaval in Brasil | Life Lovers Magazine | April 2023"
Even though I was lucky there was already a group of friends planning this trip, there are some steps we took that could definitely help everyone prepare for this unforgettable experience. First, you want to start looking early on Airbnb or at hostels for group rooms. The best area in my opinion to be is Ipanema, and it sells out fast.
If you’re not sure your friends will go, but you don't want to miss it, don’t worry! I met so many solo travellers and almost all stayed at hostels to meet groups. I used to think that for unique experiences I needed to wait for the right person or group to go with me, but then the pandemic happened, and I really reflected on how time is such a valuable currency. If you want to do something, just go. If you're lucky enough to do it twice, then great, but what if by waiting you never go at all?
In my experience as a solo traveller, I can testify I meet plenty of solo travellers with similar stories. We all enjoy the common room bonding time and, just like that, we are good friends experiencing Carnaval together. I didn't even know everyone in my group until I landed, and it worked out great.
Now, you’re all ready to make it to your first Bloco, a street party organized by locals in Rio. They are outdoors and take place on certain roads and travel from block to block for a few hours. You dress up within the theme and dance, play music and enjoy the party outdoors. Traffic is closed and pedestrians decorate the streets! You'll soon forget being worried you were on your own. Thousands to millions of people fill the streets in Brasil for 10 straight days!
Rumour has it that Carnaval in Rio is the biggest party in the world. Boasting a reputation like this, and also being a cheeky Irish woman, an event that could rival Dublin on St. Patrick's Day is pretty massive, I had to see it for myself. I’ve heard the celebrations in other cities and villages were unique and wonderful, but I had to experience it directly from Rio de Janeiro!
Arriving two days before the start, we all had time to get organized and buy a few more bits for our outfits. I was worried people wouldn't really dress up, and I'd stick out, but let me reassure you, that EVERYONE dresses up and if you don't then you will feel left out.
Carnaval is what you make of it and people certainly make out and dress however they like. From thong bikinis and tutus, gals and guys in so much glitter it never washes off, elaborate headpieces, so many feathers, and themed parties (Blocos) on the street like 'Sun', 'Fruit', 'Animals' or 'Pink'; there's fashion I've not seen anywhere else but in Rio! It was liberating to walk around in the infamous Brazilian Bikini and tutu while taking the metro to a Bloco. I felt sexy and confident and never would've dressed like this back home...ever! Men and women of all ages and sizes dressed to impress and sparkle in their glitter galore!
I used to think Carnaval would have an age limit and I needed to get there sooner rather than later. Now having seen it up close, like most other preconceived notions, it is not true. Rio shuts down for almost two weeks and at every and all ages people are celebrating. Perhaps, if you want to party from 6 AM to 6 AM, you may need to suss out where you are, but there's room for everyone, and it's a time to celebrate being alive.
I didn't expect to arrive at a Bloco on Leblon Beach and find people already there at 10 am dancing to music and following performers. But I was even more surprised to arrive at 7 am somewhere else and meet a party with the energy of a disco at 10 pm! Why so early? I think it must have something to do with the heat! Rio has “mucho calor” and from 7 am to 1 pm you can just about handle it, but then we all need to hydrate and get back inside, only to return later once it cools off.
If partying isn't all you had in mind for Carnaval, bear in mind that a lot of businesses and shops are closed during the festivities. A lot of the popular tourist destinations are open, if only with a few changed hours. I saw people dressed up like angels and devils visiting one of the wonders of the world at the Christ Redeemer. But you can also do what you feel at your pace.
After Carnaval took a 3-year hiatus for Covid-19, it's back better than ever and with app updates to help ensure we know where everyone is and what's what and where. I was able to wrap Carnaval up at a LIVE, and FREE Anitta concert in Centro Rio!! At the end of this experience, I believe the people of Rio simply don't sleep, that's all I can work out from this. Because the city is always awake!
The highlight of Carnaval was attending Sambadromo on Sunday night. We watched the best of the best Samba schools in the nation perform, and it was sensational. The colours, drums, dancers, music, and performances are what you imagine Carnaval is like, and then, you're there in person; it's so surreal. My feet and legs were so tired from dancing around Rio since sunrise, but this event was complete with complimentary massages and makeup or hair-inspired booths too! And, if you need a refresher while there, you can also find air-conditioned rooms with seats with the performances aired on television. Wondering why you might need rest? Well, it also has a little something to do with the fact the Samba competition will run from 9 pm until 3 or 4 am! Yes, you read that correctly! You have to see it to believe it! It's an event you should experience at least once in your life, so when you enter the dome and are there, take it all in. Each beat of the drum or swivel of the hips and quick rhythm of the feet will blow your mind. You'll be on your feet too trying to learn!
"Carnaval in Brasil | Life Lovers Magazine | April 2023"
Five Things to Know Before Carnaval in Rio:
It's very hot so dress accordingly but also wear plenty of sun cream and zinc. We sweat so much that only zinc really lasted the whole day. My preferred sunblock is Amavara SPF 50 with bronze tinting.
If you don't know what to wear, relax! Vendors and the famous Rio outdoor market will have everything and more! From glitter, body jewels, hats, sunglasses, thongs, bikinis, boas, fairy wings, tutus and colourful shirts or skirts! Embrace every wild thought you ever had for fashion and celebrate your style under Rio’s famous Sugarloaf sunset.
It gets wild! I heard a joke that it is called 'Makeout City' and honestly I've never seen anything like it. Men and women just walk up to you and ask if they can kiss you. I have to hand it to them that the consent checking is appreciated and a nod to other countries, but I was surprised, to say the least. Nowhere else than at Carnaval have I seen love shared so freely!
Performers, musicians, and moving floats fill the streets and are called Blocos. The event moves quickly, so keep updated on the app or social media. You might be early or late depending on the traffic, too. When in doubt, ask around and be patient as well as ready to go on a moment’s notice. Also, like anywhere, if you are drinking or not, be mindful of your drinks and belongings. A money belt under your clothes is encouraged, as is not having anything valuable with you. I didn’t take my phone or cards to parties, but always had an idea of where I’d be and what I’d need.
If you are worried you won't have anyone to go with then consider staying in a mixed dorm at a hostel where you'll most likely meet other travellers and make a group for the festivities there!
About Me:
Melanie is a digital nomad exploring the field of UX design while backpacking through South America. She can be found with a 50L Osprey bag stuffed creatively with supplies for mostly summer weather but with just-in-case cold weather gear close by and hopping around hostels these days. After the pandemic and lockdowns lifted in Europe, she sold/donated/put things into storage and went travelling. She is a dual citizen of USA and Ireland; has visited 51 countries and lived in 5. Before transforming into the digital nomad lifestyle, Melanie worked as a primary school teacher in both The States and Ireland. Melanie is passionate about inclusivity and advocacy for people with special needs. When not in the classroom, Melanie has worked as an educational consultant for recently qualified teachers, and a sports coach for children within the Special Olympics program learning to swim and use a bicycle. She's swam in cold water seas throughout Ireland and The UK competed in long-distance open water swimming competitions internationally, cycled across Europe on a push-bike, free-dived in The Caribbean, hiked Mount Olympus and recently completed her PADI course. She is a lifelong learner, athlete, and adventure seeker. Melanie loves to swim, cycle, camp, and study languages. She is currently based in Brazil, with Patagonia trekking next on her bucket list for March 2023.
